Mausambi

Mausambi/Endeh Regency 22 -26 August


We left Sea world anchorage and motored (what else) all day to Batu Boga (no 18 in the famous 101 book). Hoping that nobody would already anchor there. This is a really good hideaway on the west side of a headland behind a reef. A bit tricky to get in but no problem in early afternoon with good light. The book says room for 3-4 boats. As we rounded the corner we counted 7 boats. We managed to actually find a nice spot as well but one large, expensive American yacht owner didn’t want us there and said we are too close. We were not but moved 300 meter away in the next less protected bay behind Nimbus II. Soon after they gave us a lift to the beach across where we first tried to anchor and we had a nice BBQ including damper. The locals sat behind us and watched us cook and eat. Nobody spoke English but they smiled. We played football with the kids. Next morning we swang towards the reef and the tide was at its lowest. We discovered a bommie about 50 cm under water about 15 metres away from us. A bit of a surprise because we anchored in 8 meters. We decided then and there to jump in from now on and snorkel around the boat. By the way the snorkelling there was really good.

By afternoon next day we arrived in Mausambi or Endeh regency anchorage. This one is exposed and we were rolling badly. Hoping for the swell to die down at night but it did not do enough. Next morning we went ashore and the landing was adventurous and wet. The locals build a landing jetty for us but walking on it in the surf was not easy and good entertainment for the locals. The village lies in pretty hilly surroundings. There were nice stalls with food, ikat, craft and even a medical tent including a rally casualty. A fellow elderly yachty from England fell ill and was taken to the local hospital. Mike helped the poor husband to shift their boat 3 miles away so he could be closer to the hospital. I stayed behind on the beach and practised my Indonesia with a big crowd of children. Mike had a similar experience when he walked back and was followed by a cheering crowd of children all the way.
That night we had dinner with the Politicians of the Endeh regency. It was a good night with nice food again and traditional dances and singing. One of the politicians asked us why there are only old people sailing in the rally. Mike responded that there are only young people in this rally. We all loughed . It was nearly 11 pm when we went back to the boat and the swell had not died enough to provide a safe departure. So I fell from the jetty and had an unwanted swim.

Kelimutu 25 August

Early morning start at 4.30 am with breakfast at the beach.Destination Kelimutu Volcano and the three colour lakes. The bus was an old rattling smaller version of transportation. The road was bad the first hour but the sunrise made up for it. As we got further into the land and higher up the mountain landscape became more beautiful with terraced rice fields and fruit and vegetable plantations and rainforest. We reached the entrance to the national Park and our guide got out of the car and offered two cigarettes at the gatekeepers stone statue to ensure good weather and views. From the car park we walked 10 minutes and stopped. The guide pointed to a grey clouded wall and said this is the spot were you can see the brown lake. In front of him were 20 disappointed eyes. He suggested to go further uphill where you can see all three lakes. Off we went and if by magic spell the clouds lifted the sun came out and with it a very beautiful and spectacular scenery. To our surprise the clouds stayed away for the time we were up there and we very very lucky that day because the day before some others had the view of the lakes and craters only for a few seconds. One lake was like cappuccino, the middle one turquoise and the third dark green to black. At the car park were of course ikat selling locals and I don’t know how I ended up with another one in our small boat. After we stopped at the village of Moni for lunch, saw a traditional village where we had to dress up in traditional costumes, walk 3 times around a stone before allowed into the village where we were greeted by the chief and traditional dances. We got some refreshments, were asked for a donation but it was all good fun. Next stop was at some hot springs were the water was too hot to enter the water. Some did and looked like lobster. I put my feet in for a few seconds. At least they got clean after walking bare feet thought the black dirt of the village ( part of the costume is no shoes). Back to Mausambi. Another Nasi Goreng, Bintang and Entertainment as part of the cultural festival.We returned to the boat without incident and survived another rolly night.

Despite two more days of local festivities and entertainment we could no tolerate (or should I say “I”) the swell and rolling any more. We decided to leave early to make our way towards the next venue destination of Labuan Bajo and the very western side of Flores. We left at 8 am for a small bay 15 miles away. No swell, anchored in 15 and drifted back to 4m. Not much coral but so peaceful. One more yacht joined us later and we were only visited by one local boat .Exchange some words with them gave biscuits and pencils. Made bread and banana smoothies.Still had so many bananas and they ripen all at the same time. This anchorage was really nice and not in any books so we like to have the book changed to the “102 “ anchorage and this one dedicated to “Jemimah”. In case someone is interested the way points are 08.32.249 121.35.945.

Travelling on

Rosi & Mike